Autotrader classic

A place for the best of classic British vehicles

2014.11.08 13:04 Fowl_Eye A place for the best of classic British vehicles

A sub for classic British vehicles, be it car or planes all is welcome.

2023.03.26 00:55 911loverer2 Recently purchased a faulty ford escort [England]

Based in England, UK.
On the 14th December 2022, I put down a £200 deposit on a £1,995 1993 MK5b ford escort 1.6i 16v LX with the seller, an LTD (limited) trader (not private), 17 days later, on the 31st December 2022, i paid the full price for the vehicle £1,795. I barely used the car in the 3 months and 25 days i have owned it, and i do not use it for work commute.
The advert on Autotrader for the car does not state anything wrong with the car, it only states:
"Lovely and increasingly rare Escort MK5b 1.6i 16v LX 5dr... Outstanding history file with comprehensive documentation back to original order form."
the car had 101,720 miles on it, i put 166 miles on it after purchase on the 31st December, 101,886 miles.

The story:

When i went to look at the car which is the same day i put a deposit down, i did not inspect the car (my mistake), the paintwork of the car was exceptional, but i did not notice anything obvious just glancing at the car. I asked the seller if it starts up, he tried to start it, nothing, then he got an old used diesel battery, put it in the car, didn't start, so he got 4 more diesel batteries, hooked them up via jump leads to the just replaced diesel battery in the car, tried to start it, it started BUT i noticed smoke coming out of the battery terminals and told him "why is there smoke coming out of the battery terminals" to which he brushed off and said "It'll be fine".
After putting the deposit down after him attempting to start the car, he said he'd get an MOT and service done on it within a few days before i purchase the car in full (1.7k). When i picked up and paid the 1.7k for the car on 31st December, he handed us the service history, both keys and the relevant 90s ford service/radio guide books. I go to drive the car, not even a 30 second walk from his garage place of business, the car stalls. I walk back to him as car will not start, he comes out and jumps the car and offers to drive me back home in the purchased car with his son following behind us with his son in the sons own car, i agree. As we drive back i ask why he's revving the car on each gear change, he said "I'm keeping the revs above 1500rpm to make the alternator charge the battery". I arrive home in the car just fine, he parks it on my driveway and gets in his sons car and drives off.
I leave the car for a week or 2, then i take my father out on a short 15 miles or so drive, car starts fine, SEEMS to work OK except the smell of a burning clutch despite being easy on the clutch with no over-revving one time in the short drive, i also notice the vibrations and poor acceleration, brakes being terrible, sloppy gearbox, rolling back with the handbrake on. Once i take it back home, over the course of the next month and a half i randomly once every 2 weeks go out and start the car, turn it off and on, within that month and a half, 3 times i go around the block in the car (no more than 1 mile each time). After the month and a half, i get concerned at the noticed problems which are horrendous, but no different from when i took my father out. I believe at the time, this is just how a 90s car, especially a ford escort drives as i had never driven one or been in one.
I go to a friends house, roughly 20 miles, again, i notice the same problems wrong with it as before when i went out in it with my father, except this time, the suspension also being very dreamy/light.
I go out one morning to start the car, it does not start. I pop the engine bay and notice oil is low, i look under the car, it's got a leak out of the oil sump.... i also suspect at this point one of the 4 cylinders is dead, i also noticed cracked/illegally worn tyres on all sides, corroded/rusted front brake discs, rusted battery bay, pedals footwell rusted (but with a new bolt/washer in the brake pedal), a blown number 9 radiator fan fuse, possibly stretched or worn throttle/clutch/handbrake/footbrake cables, parting seat backing on passengedriver seats, the actual seat where you sit on both passenger & drivers seat cover completely ripped and now putting orange dust everywhere, a broken built in clock, the carpet covering for the rear brake lights in the boot of the car, rusted brake lines, rusted wishbone joints, brake calipers. And lastly, i double check the cars tax, because i paid tax, and the tax expires December 1st, 2023 when that is not when i taxed it in December on the 31st 2022, i check paid car plate checking site "Un-named-car-checking-site-dot-com" and it lists 6 owners, him being the 6th owner, except for, traders are NOT listed as owners anywhere officially. This 6th owner, which is him purchased the vehicle on 14/05/22, and has held ownership for the car as of today, 9 months and 27 days, whereas i should technically be the 6th owner as he is a trader, and there is no 7th owner regardless which would ALSO be me if the trader bought the vehicle under his personal name and not the company name, but the purchase forms state that his company owns and is selling the vehicle.
At this stage, frustrated, i book an appointment for a pre-mot, visual check, and roadworthy/safety check at TC harrisons, ford, on the 21st march 2023 with the intention of getting the paperwork of things wrong with the car from ford, going back to the trader, giving him copies of the official papers from ford and under the consumer act 2015, telling him to repair the car. As if i say X thing is wrong with the car, i understand it is his duty within 6 months of purchase to prove the car when sold and currently had/has no faults, and if found, to repair them. And if i have that paper from ford, he can't just say the car is fine if i say the car is bad because then it's word vs word and he's the trader. I also am currently compiling screenshots of the misleading advert he put up to confront him with.
After booking the appointment, i take out the old battery, charge it up for 2 days, put it back in the car, no bueno, doesn't start. I get a relatives car next to mine, jump my car off of theirs and the car starts but dies if i do not keep the car above 1500rpm, at 2000rpm. The car is now only just running. So i take the opportunity to check out that dead cylinder and the oil. I fill up the oil, car when running is leaking oil faster than if turned off out of the oil sump plug and potentially an oil sump bolt. I also use an old trick to diagnose which cylinder is dead, engine running, i pull off the HT leads/spark plug wire off of cylinder 1's spark plug, i notice the electricity arcing to the spark and can hear the clicking sound, also i notice the engine runs rough when pulling the lead off of the spark plug. I can't access 2 and 3 as they're blocked by an air hose, so i go to cylinder 4, pull the leads off of spark, then engine does NOT change idle BUT i see electricity arcing to the spark and hear the click, BINGO, the vibrations, poor acceleration is due to a dead 4th cylinder. Then the car 10 minutes after being turned on (still running) immediately seizes with a check oil light on the dash, i check oil and oil level is still the same as how much i put in, in between max and min, barely any leak on the floor. I turn the car off and leave it for a day as the appointment was tomorrow, the 21st. (This was NOT related to the spark plug)
I book the TCH appointment in for the 21st, on the 21st, i install a NEW battery and fill up the oil. After putting in the new battery and oil, the car fires straight up and i notice it's actually not vibrating nearly as much, running smoother, and the engine is not moving as much, BINGO, the dead 4th cylinder was due to the bad used battery the trader put in the car (not spark although spark was terrible) and is also the one he must of fried when smoke was coming from terminals (which i think might've also blown the number 9 radiator fan fuse). I take out the 4th spark plug, and notice it's the incorrect plug for the car, it's for a ford fiesta, looks old, yellowed, carbon/oil fouled, beige/white (heat damage) on the spark and that the gap on the plug is too much for what the escort's spark plugs require. the previous day, the car seizing with a check oil light on is irrelevant because when it did, the 4th cylinder wasn't actually firing yet so the damage on spark is not due to the previous day. (unsure of what the current other cylinders' spark plugs are in the car). Meanwhile, while all of this is going on, i go out and buy new sparks, oil, coolant, tools to work on the car which cost a fortune.
Anyways, on the 21st i installed the new battery and oil, oil leak was bad but not a constant stream of oil that'd be dangerous to other road users, i get in the car, there's no oil light anymore, reverse it out my driveway, everything is working fine, until, 20 seconds down the road it feels like the clutch is slipping while stopped at a T junction (it wasn't the clutch), the car drops rpms a bit but brings itself back up quickly, i notice nothing further, 10 seconds from the T junction as i am about to enter a dangerously fast main road, the car cuts out/stalls and the engine immediately seizes and i mean no classic engine drop in rpm when turned off and the vibrational feel, i mean like IMMEDIATELY SEIZED AND STOPPED. At this point I'm already 2 hours late for the TCH appointment, i also notice for half a second thick white smoke out the exhaust, a check oil light on the dash. I do not turn the car back on, i check oil while being an obstruction at the 2nd T junction to enter the dangerously fast main road, it has enough oil, i check coolant, the car ate the coolant, which was at the max mark no more than 3 minutes earlier when i left my driveway. I push the car all the way back to my house, wait an hour for the car to be cold, start it one more time for 8 seconds to which it instantly starts, has slightly above the min mark of coolant in, the engine bay then starts smoking, the engine bay is also extremely hot in only 8 seconds of a cold start, i turn the vehicle off immediately. I suspect the head gasket out of nowhere decided to blow up, due to heat, coolant eating, exhaust smoke, engine bay smoke. BUT in driving the car all the other times, i did not notice any head gasket-like symptoms, yet for the car to suddenly blow a (suspected) head gasket like that and THAT severely and quickly, it had to be extremely bad from purchase, considering all the other problems with the car from purchase.
The day after, 22nd, i get the car recovered to ford, book a new appointment for early next week from now (25/03/23) and I'm hoping they'll in the invoice actually give me the technical breakdown of things wrong with the car, although apparently, they may NOT test the head gasket, only say "engine overheating" due to the checks they're performing potentially not including the head gasket. I also noticed the night prior, the night of the 21st, the trader guy (owner of the company with his wife) STILL did not transfer ownership of the car as it was still under his personal name and/or the company name, a whole 3 months and 21 days later. He gave me a new keepers slip, but did not tell me to do anything with it, he said he sent off the v5c to dvla when i purchased the car (31/12/22) which is also when i paid £295 tax on the car which never got added because i never owned the car (for some reason). I have an insurance policy on the car, and despite being allowed to be insured on a vehicle with another registered owner, i told my insurance i was the owner as i believed i was, making my insurance invalid but i only found that out AFTER recovering the car to TCH on the 22nd, day after the appointment (close call). I'm sure that would of meant i was driving with no insurance and the car would of been seized and sent back to the company, that's a massive fine and points.
After the car was recovered to TCH which was costly!!!, i went to the traders garage/business, recorded the conversation via phone voice recorder so i had records and he couldn't claim intimidation, told him i had not received the logbook/v5c 3 months and 22 days later after he said he sent them when i purchased the car. He said that DVLA must of lost it, or it got lost in the post but then also said he will send them again. I'm no genius, but HOW CAN HE SEND THEM AGAIN IF HE ALREADY SENT THEM AND THEY GOT LOST?!??!??? He also said he owns the car in trade and that they don't get a logbook, and that he said that "they" (dvla) "take 8-10 weeks to send a logbook", it's been 3 months and 25 days. He said he'd call me tomorrow (23/03/23) in the evening but did not specify when, when asked. He did call, but i missed his call. I also noticed the tyres on the car are 175 when they're supposed to be 185s and the "extensive" service history was actually missing quite a lot, including the tyre change, recent repairs/replacements, and a few owners.
As i understand it, if i take copies of the official ford documents about things noticed on my car when i receive them next week to the trader, a screenshot of the misleading description of the car, my own written statement of what i noticed, and the consumer rights act 2015, saying to him: "Under the Consumer Rights Act 2015, this car should be of a satisfactory quality, fit for purpose and as described. My rights have been breached because the car you sold me is faulty/doesn’t match the description. I would like you to put this right by repairing the car at your cost." while voice recording the whole thing to have records and dismiss any potential "intimidation" arguments, i should be good? I only want to take the docs to him once i have full ownership of the vehicle though, which will mean keeping him in the dark, just so he transfers ownership to me, then hitting him with the paperwork. I want to keep the car, but get all of my money back. From citizens advice i understand that since i am within 6 months of purchase, i can go to him with the paperwork, request a repair, since the car must of been faulty when purchased, but he would need to prove it which he can't just say the car was fine when sold since the ford document stating things are wrong with the car says otherwise, my statement, meaning he would need to actually fix the problems (which are going to be insanely hard as it's a head gasket + others). Once the repair (if he accepted) is done, as long as he doesn't take too long (i will get in writing from him when he will complete the repair and if longer than said date, get a partial refund and a repaired car), if the repair hasn't solved the problem(s) or another has developed, i may only get part of my money back, depending on how much i've used the car. But i could also ask for a discount if i still want the car. I am unsure of how much money he can deduce by giving me back part of my money divided by the amount of miles I've done or any other factor if there's any guidelines on how little he can pay me since i have used the car. And that i can use an out of court ‘alternative dispute resolution' agency like the motor ombudsman, but i can't if he/his company does not follow the ombudsman's codes which he does not. So it's looking like I'm going to have to go to court (small claims?) if he refuses to pay out after the repair or if the amount he pays out is minuscule in comparison to the price of the car, or if he denies a repair, denies a repair on grounds that everything is currently fine and was fine when sold despite the ford doc and me being within 6 months or any other clause he can use to get out of losing anything. The MOT however, is done by a guy that the trader knows well and is right next to his garage. The DVSA agree that on a 3-5 year old car a test can be completed in 30 minutes and upwards, above 5 years, 45 minutes is acceptable, and older cars as long as it takes, and the MOT failed on 2 things at 11:23am and then passed at 11:47am, 24 minutes, which violates the DVSA minimum time of 30 minutes while considering the trader knows the MOT guy extremely well, paid him to pass it (but can't prove it), and the fact that with what ford come back with in the pre-mot alone, not even with the other checks, WILL fail the pre-mot, and with what I've found, means that, that car should of NOT been passed or been on the roads. I know the trader will attempt to slither his way out of it by way of not paying or repairing or doing anything he can considering he knowing sold a misleading dodgy car, caused immense distress, financial loss and that if i was on a dual carriageway which i needed to go on to reach TCH, if that engine seized, the wheels would of locked up, i would've spun out caused an accident or death to another person or myself, flipping onto the roof of my car. This means, that i think i will end up taking him to court. Which although i feel like my case is clearly the winning side, i feel like i could end up with less or nothing from court, or the court would reach a fair judgement where he actually pays less, or i'm required to give the car back for all of my money, half my money back or a 2nd repair from him. I will have to probably solicitelawyer up (?) which would be the easiest pay days of their lives. I aim to keep the lovely car, but get as much money back as possible. I am not sure on the massive grey areas of the consumer rights act 2015, my specific case or where i stand, but i believe i am massively in the right of winning everything outright in court, or potentially losing, or only gaining half of everything. Also, his company's first accounts made up to 31st march 2021 were due by 2nd december 2021 which he has not filed, he was going to be struck off the register but the Compulsory strike-off action has been discontinued if that means anything. Can i have some guidance on what to do please? i am in a shitty situation with no knowing of law. Thank you for taking the time to read this abhorrently long post.
submitted by 911loverer2 to LegalAdviceUK [link] [comments]

2023.03.01 23:54 YourOwnBiggestFan I adjusted the cheap car challenge budgets for inflation and searched Auto Trader for cars in those budgets.

First, the £100 cars. After adjusting for inflation, this gives us £165, enough to buy two things - jack shit. The cheapest car on AT is a £375 Mini with a blown gasket and a porous clutch pipe. In order to drive away in something with MOT and insurance, you need £550 for a 2004 Alfa GT with an "issue with 4th gear" or a banged-up 2010 Colt. I suppose the Alfa would at least be more interesting than a regular one...
Next up, Porsches for £1500 - or around £2500 now. With the "affordable" 4-cylinder Porsches being valuable classics now, we only have the option to follow Jeremy - buy the cheapest V8 Porsche out there, a £2480 2006 Cayenne S, and ignore the "sound coming from engine".
Coupes in the same budget? Not sticking to one brand gives a lot more options. I can follow the example of James May by buying a clapped-out GT - a 2005 BMW 645Ci with an oil leak and two different rim models, or go the sensible route with a 2003 Audi TT 1.8T Quattro with a manual, full service history and no MOT advisories. Guess which one would make for a better challenge car?
Italian exotics? With the Italian brands moving away from even trying to make a supercar affordable, £16k still doesn't get you anywhere near anything Italian with the engine in the middle - you need over twice that for a Mondial. That said, one can modernize the challenge to a newer kind of "affordable" exotic - big money cars from before the Great Recession. How does a W12 Bentley Continental with "£5k spent" sound?
Moving on to vans below £1600, how about "go big or go home" with the most powerful, one of the biggest and one of the rustiest vans below that price, a 2003 MB Sprinter 313 CDI?
British Leyland? Since even sub-£1855 BL products have disintegrated by now, I gave myself the liberty to include the products of Rover Group and MG Rover. How about a one-owner MG TF?
Police cars below £1500? Well, I can take the criminals' favourite - a graphite Jaguar XJ8 - and give it a job on the other side of the law after covering up the dents.
Alfa Romeos in the same budget? How about a 1999 GTV 2.0 TS with a bordello red interior?
And while we're on the topic of red, my entry for the luxury car challenge would be a 1970 Cadillac Coupe de Ville convertible that even fits within the original budget - how about throwing in a few Hunter S. Thompson references?
Lorries below £7500? Since I know absolutely nothing about lorries, I'm gonna go with the most powerful, highest GVW one I could find - a 2001 ERF ECX11.41 MT.
Teenager cars below £3650? To save on time, Dad can have half of the money for insurance, and the rest can go towards the most interesting thing in the sub-insurance group 20 crowd - a Fiat Bravo with a turbo and a whopping 150 BHP.
RWD cars below ~£2200? For some reason I can't escape the appeal of the R171's inbred American cousin, and want to take a 2004 Crossfire to France after gluing the roof lining back on.
When it comes to the pre-1982 cars, besides upping the budget to around £4500, I moved the year limit forward by 16 years. That means some open-top JDM fun in a 1992 Eunos Roadster V-Special that, at £2750, even fits in the original budget.
Trackday saloons below £7000? One can choose RWD in the poor man's M5 E39, but I'd rather go Quattro in a 2006 Audi S4.
British sports cars? Their appreciation has outpaced inflation, which means that I can't choose a TVR or a Jensen - all I can do is follow in Hammond's footsteps with a 1991 Lotus Elan.
4-seater convertibles below £2700 or so? Nope, I'm not getting a BMW, even though 330Ci E46s are in the budget - how about a 2005 Saab 9-3 Aero instead?
When it comes to spending around £9500 on any car, maybe that isn't enough for a F10 M5, W212 E63 AMG or C7 RS6, but it's enough for their British rival - an early Jaguar XF-R, making over 500 BHP with the help of a supercharger.
Rallycross on a budget? Since I know very little about motorsport, I'd probably mess something up with my choice, but how about nearly 200 HP in a 2-seater in the form of a 1999 SLK230 Kompressor for just as much as Clarkson paid for his E36?
Hot hatches? Even increasing the budget to £1000 and moving the timespan to the end of the 90s didn't keep me out of the beater bin - here's a 1997 Audi A3 1.8T Sport that may look dodgy, but at least has a manual and a recent MOT.
And budget SUVs run into the same issue as the OG cheap car challenge - I simply have no choices, best I can do is a £550 2006 Honda CR-V with knock sensor and ABS issues
submitted by YourOwnBiggestFan to TopGear [link] [comments]

2023.02.11 02:39 nwlinkvxd What is Impresario? A breakdown

What is Impresario? A breakdown

Impresario is a proprietary algotrading platform built in the Clojure programming language, targeting multiple brokerages, and is capable of trading stocks, options, forex, and crypto.


  • The sole strategy currently used by Impresario is to feed pure price action into a series of analytics functions, producing peaks-and-troughs, and horizontal support/resistance levels on a daily, weekly, and monthly timescale.
    • These levels are Calendar-aligned as opposed to rolling windows
  • The outputs of these functions (plus rolling weekly and monthly trend) are in turn fed into neural networks as normalized values, aiming to classify the current point in time as either a trough, a peak, or nothing.
  • Backtesting is not used. A scheduled job runs once per hour to constantly check the paper-trade profitability of every network's signals over the last 60 days. When the scheduled job runs, the bottom 20% of networks per symbol are destroyed.
  • Once per day after market close, new neural networks are trained for symbols lacking at least 4 profitable networks. This keeps the system continuously tuned to current market conditions.
  • Trades are always mean-reversion / counter-trend
  • Every position exits via a stop-loss, whether it was locked in profit or at a loss. If a neural network signal flips sentiment from buy/sell, then it will not exit the position, but the stop-loss may be moved closer to allow for an earlier exit.

Options Strategy

  • The options strategy is based on the predictions of the underlying stocks, with some caveats.
  • Strong filters are applied to remove short-DTE, low interest, high spread, wide and tight stop-losses, and generally very expensive contracts from the pool of potential entries.
  • ITM Entries are currently set at a 1.8:1 target reward-to-risk, and OTM 4:1, but this is configurable.
  • Deep ITM contracts are preferred to OTM plays for the lower volatility and decreased risk of theta decay.
  • Trades are always with-trend (inverse of the mean-reversion strategy)

Implementation Details

  • The neural networks are 2-layer MLPs based on this whitepaper
  • Every position always has a stop-loss, and 5 profit targets (although this value is configurable)
  • No statistical indicators (e.g. RSI) and no sentiment analysis is used
  • No no volume data, metrics (like P/E ratio), nor level-2 order book data are used.
  • Every symbol/stock has many neural networks trained for it. Only the most profitable network per symbol is used for trading
  • Positions are sized using a variation of Kelly Criterion
  • The number of positions held at a time is a configured value but currently up to 20 for shares and 8-12 per side (calls/puts) for options depending on win-rate.
  • The overall account leverage is an auto-scaling value that adjusts with rolling 3-week win-rate, as overall market conditions change.
  • Regular stop-losses are used for all shares trades and stop-limits for options trades, but stop price is triggered by the Mark price, rather than the last trade. AFAIK this can only be done via API for TD Ameritrade, not in the web interface or app. Stop-loss trailing is done programmatically by the bot, not handled by the brokerage.

Things that absolutely DID NOT WORK for me

  • Classic statistical indicators
  • Using a single network/model for all stock symbols
  • LSTMs, Random Forests, xgBoost
    • These produce lower error rates during training, but perform poorly in backtesting and live trading
  • Using smaller neural networks, or trying to optimize out inputs that may not be used
  • Using support/resistance levels as entries or stop-losses
  • K-means clustering of levels
    • This was disastrous for neural network accuracy as exact daily support and resistance are two high-importance features in the neural network inputs for every symbol. K-means averages away the accuracy of the levels and makes them meaningless.
  • Using single timescale approaches, or using fixed-window trend timescales (e.g. "price trend this month" starting at the first of the calendar month)
  • Adding a Bogleheads type portfolio rebalancing strategy into the mix
  • Adding a momentum/trend following shares strategy into the mix
  • For options, shorter DTE contracts (< 20DTE) and high IV plays

How you can benefit

Copy Trading

  • Impresario posts all trades to 2 discord servers currently:
  • Run a copy-trade bot
    • I built copy-trader specifically for people to be able to run their own accounts against the trades Impresario broadcasts. This supports Alpaca and TD Ameritrade.
      • As of February 2023, only stock shares trading is supported. Options trading will become available later tied to a higher level of Patreon subscription.
    • Alternatively, in late March 2023 I launched Impresario on the Collective2 trading network. There you can subscribe and autotrade your account if you're on IBKR, TradeStation, NinjaTrader, and a few other brokerages.

Build your own bot

  • The majority of the secret sauce for how Impresario works is discussed at length in my twitch highlights
  • If you have detailed questions regarding implementation or specific tweaks for things, if you are a level 1 Twitch or Patreon subscriber I am happy to discuss those details with you.


How large of an account do I need to follow Impresario's Trades?
  • I recommend a margin account with at least $26,000 since the bot longs and shorts shares, and buys puts and calls.
What are the benefits of copy-trading Impresario vs. human analysts?
  • Pros: no typos, no emotions, no "oh hey they moved their own stop-loss and didn't tell us", stops and entries are calculated statistically and not based on "a gut feeling", no fear of selling a loser or taking profits too early
  • Cons: because Impresario doesn't track sentiment and news, entries can get wiped due to situations like pump-and-dump hype, good/bad earnings, and other news
Why counter-trend (for shares trading)? Why not trade with the trend? "The trend is your friend!"
  • Identifying a trend reversal using machine learning is relatively easy. Trend continuations and breakouts are considerably harder to classify from my experience, and thus there's insufficient data to train accurate ML models.
Why inverse your signals for options? If your mean-reversion strategy is good, why not use it for both?
  • I've found that options plays are inherently high-momentum plays that ideally will work out much sooner than the shares strategy. With options that are not LEAPS, because of theta decay, you cannot afford to be very patient. That means you want options trading to be a momentum-oriented strategy in most cases.
submitted by nwlinkvxd to CodingAndCoffee [link] [comments]

2023.01.16 02:24 SnooBananas5673 Thoughts on ‘50 for $41k

I’ve been following this bug through several auctions. It’s now on west coast. I feel like there’s something amiss with it, seller currently wanted $41k. It has been shopped around for months.
It seems like it’d be an easy sell. Is there something with these older bugs that has to line up for them to be high dollar?
submitted by SnooBananas5673 to vwbug [link] [comments]

2023.01.10 16:00 water_conversation I really don't want my 240z anymore

I really don't want my 240z anymore
so, I have had my Z at a garage that is leaving its space and it needs to be out by the end of the month.

I have lots of house projects and preschoolers around the house and have a couple of other cars so my z will just be too much.

I spent $60k on the restoration and would get rid of it for $25k. It's in northern virginia rn.

Does anybody want it?
submitted by water_conversation to Datsun [link] [comments]

2022.12.28 17:26 h4nn1b4l_ Where to buy

Hey all! New to the sub, I have been eyeing an FJ60/62 for the past year or so, use to daily a stock 2001 Land Rover D2, loved it and want to get back into a retro 4x4.
I've been looking all over classic autotrader and craigslist. Didn't know if there was community secret to buying these, found a bunch under 30k that would need minimal TLC, budget is 35k or less.
Wondering where you all have been looking for reliable vehicles? What to look for while test driving, outside of the norm?
submitted by h4nn1b4l_ to LandCruisers [link] [comments]

2022.12.14 17:27 NaggerGuy The 4th Generation Toyota 4Runner is an Underappreciated Classic - Autotrader

The 4th Generation Toyota 4Runner is an Underappreciated Classic - Autotrader submitted by NaggerGuy to 4thGen4Runner [link] [comments]

2022.12.11 02:35 Rana_Advisor 2008 X-Type for my 2nd Car in 2022. Am I stupid?

2008 X-Type for my 2nd Car in 2022. Am I stupid?
I'm a recent university graduate and I've always admired the classic Jag look. I've quite a limited budget and the used car environment is looking quite bad at the minute to get anything more orthodox and contemporary.
Out of curiosity I searched X types on autotrader and was quite astonished at the prices I was seeing. After reading up online with the issues that can happen with X types I can understand why they're priced so low, but I've found this one in the pic for a bit over 1.5k. It's a Cat N, but as far as I can tell that means only cosmetic damage and the exterior in the photos seems highly intact.
I'm debating asking for a viewing. It's a 2.0 Diesel S (I don't really care that much about getting a petrol, and with my limited budgetI like the MPG), 86,000 miles, and no MOT advisories.
So is this a decent second car? My budget is limited at the moment but I'm starting a new job and don't mind the odd maintenance every now and then. I probably plan on keeping it for 3 years tops.
submitted by Rana_Advisor to Jaguar [link] [comments]

2022.12.08 03:14 artgardenonline Looking to Sell a classic Mercedes - does anyone know any dealerships or collectors who buy old cars?

I have a 1999 Mercedes-Benz SL500 in great shape that I am looking to sell. I put the postings up on Autotrader and Kijiji at the beginning of the week which I’m expecting to be fruitful probably closer to the spring/summer (you never know). But I was wondering if there were any classic car dealers or collectors that anyone knows that would entertain a call to buy it off me.
This is a legendary car. Last year before the R129 model was actually good. The SL500 is known for setting a new standard for including technology in vehicles. Not to mention its fast and fun as hell to drive. It has 301 HP. It’s a convertible that comes with a detachable hard top.
I’m buying a newer larger vehicle that will suit my family better, and dont have much space to store it.
submitted by artgardenonline to Calgary [link] [comments]

2022.11.26 03:03 exosgomez Looking to buy a new car

I’ve had a 2012 BMW 1 series for a few years now but some twat on a stolen bike crashed into me and misaligned the wheels. Repair shop authorised by insurer weren’t able to fix it and it’s been written off now.
I’m looking to spend up to £10k and buy out right, not on finance.
I don’t really want anything older than 2014/2015, and I want to get an automatic with parking sensors, on petrol with max 50k ish mileage. Also if I’m being really picky, I’d like for it to have a screen and not the classic CD player with buttons.
I’ve had a look on autotrader but I don’t really want a small size car as I had a Toyota Yaris for years and grew to hate it. I liked the size of my BMW, and I don’t want a massive car as it’s mainly just for me.
I know BMW’s, Mercs, Audi’s etc. get bad reps and tbh I can’t find any great ones in my budget and criteria. So I think I need to open my mind a bit.
Any suggestions on what to go for? I’m considering a Polo if I can find a decent one. But I’d like something with low maintenance and can last me a while.
Also any other places I can look other than autotrader? Also should I wait till the new year or does the timing not really affect price?
submitted by exosgomez to CarTalkUK [link] [comments]

2022.11.06 07:40 K31lover2 any red flags I should be aware of in this post? I'm pretty new to this Era of car and I don't want to buy a money pit and I want to keep auto history in as good a condition as I can, is this worth my money or should I move on?
submitted by K31lover2 to classiccars [link] [comments]

2022.09.27 18:55 water_conversation letting go of my ground-up build. hopefully one of you will enjoy it for years to come

letting go of my ground-up build. hopefully one of you will enjoy it for years to come
I bought this car in 2005 when I was studying mechanical engineering. After many years of hard work, it's in its best shape yet but my life is much different now and I'm looking to sell. :)
submitted by water_conversation to Datsun [link] [comments]

2022.09.26 19:36 no73 Where do I buy, and more importantly sell, more unique / niche vehicles?

Before I get any further, the car I'm selling is a 2000 Honda Insight I bought as a project over lockdown. It's in good running, driving, MoT'd condition now, but I've bought another car so it has to go.
I've had a fair few unique or less ordinary cars, but the way life's worked out I've never had to actually advertise one for sale, either as I've ended up parting them for spares, selling to acquaintances, or just swapping them, so this is basically my first time selling a non-mainstream car.
I've sold a few bog-standard cars by sticking them on autotrader and that's always done the job for me, but it seems less ideal for a more uncommon car. I've advertised this one on the owner's club Facebook page, which got a bit of interest, and on Car and Classic which has generated no interest at all. A friend suggested I try Pistonheads classifieds. Any further recommendations? Tips for places to advertise? Free is obviously great but I don't mind paying, however if possible I'd like to avoid time-limited ads for now, as work has me all over the place at the moment so selling this thing is proving aggravating, mostly as I'm not at home to sell it upwards of half the time.
submitted by no73 to CarTalkUK [link] [comments]

2022.09.01 23:54 crazydrum954 Best place to look for a mini UK?

Apologies if this is frowned upon
I know that classic minis are pretty common still over here and can be found on all the usual places, autotrader, eBay, Facebook etc but is there any better places or niche forums to look for minis for sale?
submitted by crazydrum954 to classicminis [link] [comments]

2022.08.24 12:53 undecisivefuck Buying a classic as a first car for domestic/leisure use - dumb idea?

Hi All,
I've been spending too much time looking at carandclassic and it seems like getting a well-maintained classic car would be a better deal than a decade-old supermini off Autotrader.
Would it be a stupid idea to buy something like a Eunos Roadster or 316i Compact rather than the typical Fabia/Up!/Swift? I am 20 years old and a uni student in Bristol, and will be using the car for social, domestic, and pleasure purposes; this would be my first car and I'd be looking for something under £4,000 that is somewhat cheap to run and insure whilst being a bit less numb than the Diesel Focus of my driving instructor.
Cheers :)
edit: grammar
submitted by undecisivefuck to CarTalkUK [link] [comments]

2022.08.12 17:02 Just-the-top 2017 Bentley Mulsanne $39,900

2017 Bentley Mulsanne $39,900 submitted by Just-the-top to delusionalcraigslist [link] [comments]

2022.07.22 03:20 Aware_Yesterday_1846 Buying A Car.

My fifteen year old son has decided he wants an E30. Where do I find one? Craigslist seems to have nothing on it any longer, Facebook Marketplace is a bust, and I haven’t seen anything under 20k on Classic Autotrader. Where should I be looking?
submitted by Aware_Yesterday_1846 to E30 [link] [comments]

2022.07.17 15:51 Fitfatthin First sale: Selling my YBR125Classic

Hi, this sub has been great in the past and hopefully will help now.
Unfortunately due to financial circumstances I'm having to sell my beautiful 125cc classic, 2016 reg
I've got some online stealership quotes which seem really unreasonable at offers of £1300
I'm going to try to sell it on autotrader. Is there anything I need to know about selling to private people? Any tips and tricks regarding safety, handing over the monies etc?
Any advice appreciated.
submitted by Fitfatthin to MotoUK [link] [comments]

2022.07.07 08:41 spannerthrower Where to park a car for sale??

I am selling a retro Jeep Cherokee, a niche car future classic. I’ve got for sale signs on it, would like to park it somewhere it’ll get a lot of footfall. Where in the west end is free to park, safe to leave and will get lots of footfall? I thought about the bridge at the end of QMD but it’s pay and display
Edit- the above is in addition to it being advertised online all the usual places, Autotrader, gumtree, FB marketplace, Jeep forums
submitted by spannerthrower to glasgow [link] [comments]

2022.06.30 23:54 three_shoes "Which shade of grey would you like, Sir?" - why are our colour choices so bland?

Im often railing through places like Autotrader looking at all sorts of cars, as you do, whether it be something im thinking of buying, fancy cars way out of budget, something that caught my eye on the street so I look them up etc.
And I really notice how bland and narrow our choices of colour combinations are. So many shades of the grey scale, the odd red and blue thrown in if you're lucky, almost entirely black interiors.
I know some things like black interior has its practical side, but why are our choices so boring? Where is the fun? Is it just too obsessed with resale? Does consumer choice effect the manufacturer options? Or are the manufacturer narrowing choices to streamline production? Are they even holding back, to make more money off expensive special request options? (especially for higher end cars im certain this is true...)
I look around on some other sites like Bring A Trailer quite often too, which is US cars, and I dont know if its because thats a more specific 'enthusiast' kind of site, but the colour and specs of cars there seems much more varied and interesting, bolder exteriors, braver interiors etc. And this is still in more common newer cars, that can be compared to whats also available in the UK, not just quirky classics.
submitted by three_shoes to CarTalkUK [link] [comments]

2022.06.26 13:31 codelyoko126 This is a 2001 Camaro I found on autotrader classics. It looks really good imo.

This is a 2001 Camaro I found on autotrader classics. It looks really good imo. submitted by codelyoko126 to AwesomeCarMods [link] [comments]

2022.06.22 02:35 fastcarsbigsuv Missed out on 3 TJs in row. How to find a good one?

I love the old school Camel interior in the 97-02 Wranglers and have been on the hunt for one that is relatively clean and stock. I’m going for the classic American look and not the modded mud crawler. I have alerts set on Autotrader and and stalk Craigslist & Facebook marketplace daily, but every time I find one I’m too late. The last two never even made it out of the detail shop before someone bought them, pictures were never even posted online. Another was bought out from underneath me before I could meet a private seller same day it was posted. I’m in Oklahoma and have a 500 mile radius set. Am I crazy to think I should be able to find one? How do you find the jeeps you buy?
submitted by fastcarsbigsuv to Wrangler [link] [comments]